What I Loved
- The extensive Reina Sofia Museum, especially Picasso’s epically emotional Guernica, a visual polemic against war and the wrenching forces of modernity.
- The Royal Armory at the Palacio Nacional. The intricate armor worn by emperors like Charles V and Philip II reveal how petite those men actually were. Were the palace’s absurdly grandiose main rooms, dripping in frescoes, ornate plaster carvings and Baroque furniture, a way of compensating?
- Wandering the capital’s grand avenues and boulevards. There’s a fountain or monument around every corner, and the tiny side streets lead you to infinitely browsable neighborhoods like posh Salamanca, youthful Malasaña, gay-friendly Chueca, or hipster La Latina.
What I Ate
Ham, ham, lots of ham. Bellota is the finest variety of jamón ibérico, made from free-roaming, acorn-fed piggies. Glistening, luscious, well marbled, slightly sweet, it’s completely addictive—and we ordered it every time we saw it on a menu. But we learned quickly to ask for a tapa-sized portion: A full ración had enough sliced ham to choke a horse...not to say we left any behind.
Where I Ate
The best jamón was at a venerable tapas bar in Malasaña called Bodega La Ardosa—make sure to also try the Cabrales-stuffed croquetas and a bowl of salmorejo, a thicker version of gazpacho. In La Latina, Juana La Loca has modern tapas like raw sea bass with shaved truffles, but also traditional options, like their exemplary egg-and-potato tortilla. Bibo was a fun, brightly lit “scene” restaurant with a carnivalesque theme—think dishes that arrive steaming with dry ice or smoke. Fismuler is a lower-key but still lively spot with a menu that seizes the season with a Nordic touch: grilled corvina with charred endives, roasted duck in a puree of sweet, smoky corn.
Where I Stayed
A designated national landmark, the Palacio del Retiro is an elaborate mansion from the early 20th century that’s been turned into a contemporary luxury hotel. I loved how the modern furniture ceded center stage to the well-preserved and respected architectural elements of the original building: swirled plaster moldings, intricately carved wooden doors, a show-stopping wrought-iron central staircase. Our room overlooked the leafy grounds of the vast Retiro Park—a perfect, soothing respite from the busy city.